Climbing Time Wave Zero: A Journey of a Lifetime

As I stood on the edge of El Potrero Chico, Mexico, gazing up at the towering cliffs of El Toro, my heart was racing with excitement and nerves. My best friend Will and I had spent months planning our ascent of Time Wave Zero, a 2300-foot, 23-pitch sport climb that would push us to our limits.

We arrived in Mexico in February 2018, armed with a grant from the American Alpine Club's 'Live Your Dream' program. The journey was far from over, but we were determined to make it to the top of Time Wave Zero. We spent countless hours researching, organizing, and planning every detail of our climb.

The day finally arrived when we would set out on the approach. Even though we had planned meticulously, I couldn't shake off my anxiety. The thought of tackling such a challenging route was daunting, but Will's reassuring presence helped calm my nerves. We made our way to the base of the climb, feeling more confident with each step.

The first few days were spent acclimating to the area and learning the rock. We tackled Jungle Mountaineering (4 pitches, 5.10a) and Space Boyz (11 pitches, 5.10d), two routes that would help us prepare for Time Wave Zero. On day one, we completed Yankee Clipper (15 pitches, 5.12a/c) in a single push.

As the days passed, our energy levels increased, and we began to feel more comfortable on the rock. But as rain loomed on the horizon, we knew it was time to make our move. We had been preparing for this moment for months, and we were ready to take on Time Wave Zero.

The climb itself was a rollercoaster of emotions. The first few pitches flew by quickly, but as the sun began to set, we found ourselves facing longer, more challenging sections of climbing. Will's steady belay kept me going, even when my arms felt like lead and my legs were screaming for mercy.

As I reached the 15th and 16th pitches (200', 5.10d), the sun was just starting to creep over the horizon. It was nearly seven in the morning, and we had been climbing for five and a half hours. The fatigue was setting in, but the thought of reaching the top kept me going.

And then, suddenly, I was there. Standing on the summit, feeling an overwhelming sense of pride and accomplishment. Tears pricked at the corners of my eyes as I gazed out at the breathtaking view. It was a moment that would stay with me for the rest of my life – the culmination of 11 months of planning, hard work, and perseverance.

For Will and me, climbing Time Wave Zero was more than just a challenge; it was a journey of self-discovery and growth. We had pushed ourselves to our limits, tested our strength and endurance, and emerged stronger and more confident as a result. As we made our way back down the mountain, exhausted but exhilarated, we knew that this experience would stay with us forever.

Black diamond atc guide video